edit pic with photoshop.

[boo]

I learn tips of photoshop from friends and from other photo sites. Again, I'm not a professional. However, I tried to help those unforturnately, who couldn't find help with photoshop else where. I'm sure that lots of you out there who know much more then I do. If you can contribute some constructively instructions, help, and thoughts. We're appriciated that.

This's my routin photoshop editing pictures. The picture below, I took with my camera nikon D100 before editing. Usually, I took it a little bit under expose ( appear darker then normal picture ), It easier to edit under expose picture compare to over expose picture ( over expose pictures bi. wash out .. tra(ng' qua' ma^t' details ne^n kho' correct ho*n )

Picture below

size: large, Fine
6x10 inches

[boo]

Next. I like to CROP ( cut the picture to the size and the way I like it. You can do this by hit the key C ( or use your mouse arrow point and click at the CROP tool. The Crop tool is on the tool box, a small window usually on the leftside. Crop tools is the 3rd one from top on the left.) The Crop tool work like a frame and cut out those part of the picture that you don't want in the picture. Point the Crop tool to where you want to start cutting the picture, left click on the mouse, holding it down while stretch the crop frame diagonal to where you want it end.

this below pictures is after cropped

[boo]

Next. I want to make my picture a bit lighter.

Go to IMAGE--> ADJUSTMENT--> LEVELS

there's a small window pop up. There're 3 arrows pointed up. The left arrow is for BLACK. The middle one is for GREY and the right one is for WHITE. I first moved the right arrow ( white) to the left just a bit, the picture getting lighter. Then I move the middle arrow ( grey) to the left and until the picture look ok but might be a bit foggy. ( the foggy part is ok. You can fix it later by changing the contrast and I'll tell you how to do that. Other way to balance the foggy is to moved the left arrow ( black ) to the right. However, I usually prefer fixing it later by increase contrast). If you mess it up, just simply go to EDIT --> STEP BACK and play with it again until you get it right.

Below is my picture after LEVELS

[boo]

Now I like to add a little " live " to my picture :) ( I meant add a little color to it)

Go to IMAGE --> ADJUSTMENT --> HUE/SATURATION

There a small window pop up with arrows pointed up for HUE, SATURATION, and LIGHTNESS. Moved the arrow of SATURATION to the right to increase saturation until you like the color of your picture. ( you can play the other arrows for HUE and LIGHTNESS, but I usually leave them alone unless the color of my picture is way off )Then click OK.

This picture below is after increase saturation

[boo]

For the contrast.

go to IMAGE --> ADJUSTMENT --> BRIGHTNESS/CONTRAST

a small window pop up for BRIGHTNESS and CONTRAST

moved the arrow of contrast to the right until you like the way it looks. Click OK

Now, go to FILEs --> SAVE AS ... and save the image with different name before you try something new with the picture. Chance is, if you mess it up, you still have the back up one.

Below is the picture after contrast

[boo]

Now, I like to add a dark line around the border of my picture to make it stand out later on when I framed it. ( if you don't like this, you can skip this step)

go to SELECT --> ALL

go to SELECT --> MODIFY --> BORDER

a small window pop up. enter the number of pixel depend on how thick you want the dark line around your picture be. I usually enter 5, then click OK. You should see a dash line at the border of your picture.

go to LAYER --> NEW FILL LAYER --> SOLID COLOR

a small window pop up, just click OK

another small window ( color picker ) pop up. The mouse arrow will become a little circle once you move into the bigger square color box. I like dark color, so I moved the little circle to the black area inside the bigger square box and click on that region ( black is at the bottom of this color picker box ), Now, I have a picture with a dark line around the picture.

below is the picture after bordered.

[boo]

you won't see the different of these two picture above, one is bordered, the other one above it, isn't, until you apply canvas to the pictures.

Depend on how big the size of your picture is, to add canvas on and make it looking relatively acceptable. My picture usually is 6x10 inches so I usually add 2 inches to the canvas.

go to IMAGE --> CANVAS SIZE

a small window pop up, you can change the number on the WIDTH and the HEIGHT. After crop, my image now is approximately 6x9 inches. I added 2 inches to both width and height so it become 8x11, then click OK. ( if you mess up or don't like the canvas that you just got, go to EDIT --> STEP BACKWARD and try it again).

below is my picture after canvas

[boo]

Now, I like to framed it.


go to SELECT --> ALL

go to SELECT again --> MODIFY --> BORDER

a small window pop up. Enter number of pixels depend on how thick you want the frame going to be. My picture is large ( 8x11 inches now) so I enter 90. If you picture's size is kind of smaller than my, then enter a smaller number of pixels. ( hint: small frame seems to be more elegant). After you enter the number of pixels, click OK.

go to LAYER --> NEW FILL LAYER --> SOLID COLOR

there will be a small window pop up, just click OK

there's another window call COLOR PICKER pop up. You like to pick a color for the frame ( suggestion: some color match the color of the picture ). You can play around with the color picker and find the color that you like, or pick a color on your picture and make it the color of the frame. Notice that, once you move your mouse arrow ( a little circle inside the color box) out and into your picture, it become the eyedrop tool. Just click on any area inside your picture and find the color that you like for the frame. Then click OK.

Go to LAYER -- LAYER STYLE --> BEVEL and EMBOSS

a small window pop up call : LAYER STYLE

you can play around with these numbers in this window until you get the result that you like. ( remember, if you mess up, just click cancel, or simply go to EDIT and STEP BACKWARD then, try it again). For example, this's my setting.

Style: Outer bevel ( there's a arrow pointing down, click this arrow and choose OUTER BEVEL).
Technique: CHISEL HARD
Depth: 700%
Direction: Up or Down depend on where the light shining from.
Size: 13 px
Soften: 0 px
Angle: 30
CHECKED on the Global Light
Altitude: 30
Click the arrow of Gloss Contour. There's a chart. Point your mouse arrow and hold a while, there will be information on each of them. Find the RING contour and click on it.
Highlight mode: Screen
opacity: 75%
Shadown mode: multiply
opacity: 75%
Now, on the leftside of the SAME window. CHECKED on INNER GLOW.
Now, click OK


and again, if you don't like it, go to EDIT and .. blah blah blah :)

go to FILES --> SAVE AS try different name and save it with JPEG, and maximum ( large).

and last. If you still confuse, let me know and see if I can make it a little clearer. Good luck nhen. :)

below is my finish picture and ready for ..vietcyber :)

[tinalam_49]

excellent job. thanks boo.
can i ask you one question : why you choose to crop the pic instead of to resize it? are there any difference between that? usually my original picture is at 1600x1200 pixels.. then i resize it smaller for editing and framing>>> will the picture lost the quality?

[boo]

There's different between crop and resize the picture ddo' Tina

Crop: select pha^n` hinh` ma` Tina thich' va` ca(t' bo? nhu*ng~ pha^n` hinh` Tina kho^ng thich'. Nhie^u` khi minh` chup. hinh` trong ddo' co' pha^n` du* thu*a`, kho^ng dduo*c. nghe^. thua^t. cho ma^y', phai? ca(t' xen' ddi dde^? hinh` nhin` tha^y' ddep. ho*n. Sau khi Crop, hinh` bi. ma^t' size it' hoat. nhie^u` tuy` theo minh` crop nhie^u` hay it'. Tuy nhie^n, hinh` va^n? giu*? dduo*c. quality.

Resize: giu*? nguye^n cai' hinh` nhu* va^y. nhu*ng lam` giam? cai' quality ( in term of pixel ) xuo^ng'.

Personally, I like to keep the picture high quality and save as different name just incase for the quality print purpose ( ie big print as 16x24 inches and the picture still look good). After I save the picture under a different name with the original quality ( for example, I save it to my document), I'm then going to open my document file ( I'm not open my document using photohop, just open it from desktop), point the mouse arrow to the file of the picture I just save, RIGHT click --> EDIT. There will be another window name PAINT pop up. Now, go to IMAGE --> STRETCH/SKEW and left click on that. There will be a small window pop up again. On the stretch, enter the number of percent for resize ( I usually resize my picture to 20 % for both vertical and horizontal ), if what you choose is too big, or too small, just close the window and don't save it. Redo this step again and enter different numbers of percent ( increase or decrease compare to the one you did before) . After you done, save as DIFFERENT NAME so you still keep the other high quality file. Now, the new file you just save as, is very small in size but the quality is acceptable for posting in vietcyber :)

try it and let me know nhe' Tina.

[tinalam_49]

now i understand the difference. Nhưng theo cách Tina nghỉ thì:
1) agreed with you to crop the pic để bỏ những phần dư thừa của hình

2) đa số hình truớc khi Tina chụp thì Tina cố gắng framing the scene through the viewfinder.. Lấy thí dụ cái original photo là perfect, no details dư thừa. Rồi bây giờ làm editing and framing with photoshop. Dỉ nhiên đâu có thể dùng the original size of the pic ? lúc này bắt buộc phải resize or strech/skew để sau khi add canvas, border hình sẻ có một size 5x7 or 8x11.. như vậy khi print hình sẻ bị mất quality sao ?

3) Tina know and always save the original photo under different name for using in to different purposes.. the original photo is saved into cd.

[boo]

hi Tina

1. Tina luc' chup. hinh` ne^n nhin` cai' view qua LCD ne^u' Tina try to take a perfect view. Ci' reason la` tai. vi` cai' view from view finder se~ khac' ddi ti' xiu' so vo*i' cai' view tu*` LCD ( and cai' view from LCD thi` chinh' xac' ho*n ) nha^t' la` nhu*ng~ luc' chup. ga^n`.

2. Tuy` Tina thich' print hinh` ra lo*n' co*? size nao` dde^? luc' chup. hinh` ca^n` dde^? y'. Vi' du. nhen. May' cua? Boo chup. ra size 4x6. Luc' print lo*n' ra thanh` 8x10, boo phai? ca(t' hinh` to*i' 2 inches la^n. DDie^u` ddo' co' nghia~ la` luc' boo chup. hinh`, boo phai? dde^? y' canh cai' view du* mo^i~ be^n ti' xiu' dde^? sau nay` ddem ve^` dung` photoshop crop no' va` luc' print ra se~ ddep. nhu* y' boo muo^n' va^y..

3 May' cua? Tina chup. portrait dduo*c.. Tina thu*? chup. cach' nay` nhen. Chup. hinh` vao` buo^i? sang', ddu*ng` ddu*ng' nguo*c. na(ng' vi` flash cua? Tina kho^ng manh. la(m'. To^t' ho*n la` tim` cai' bong' mat' duo*i' tang` ca^y hay mai' hie^n cao cao nao` ddo' dde^? khoi? co' bi. to^i' qua'. Lu*a. cai' background nao` to^i' ho*n nguo*i` dduo*c. chup. hinh` nhu*ng ddu*ng` co' to^i' qua'. Dung` flash fill in dde^? mau` hinh` dduo*c. tuo*i ho*n. Ne^n ddu*ng' xa va` zoom lai. dde^? hinh` khoi? bi. distortion. Sau khi chup. ve^`, dung` photoshop dde^? correct lai. ... va^n? co' the^? lam` dduo*c. cai' portrait ddep. ma`.

[leminh]

good framing lesson! :thumbs:


Thanks alot!

leminh

[scorpion]

Thanks Boo .... thanks a buch, good one, phải print out làm sách gối đầu giường mới được :D :D

[boo]

Thanks Boo .... thanks a buch, good one, phải print out làm sách gối đầu giường mới được :D :D


hahahaha

[Sieu Viet]

good tut... but I think the pix is a little over saturate and has yellow cast in it... and since you already edit the pix already, why not replace the sky (with cloud)?

[boo]

good tut... but I think the pix is a little over saturate and has yellow cast in it... and since you already edit the pix already, why not replace the sky (with cloud)?

You're absolutely right SieuViet, I just tried to share something simple and easy to follow. We're here need lot of help to create better pictures and I'm as well as a beginner on PS. So, to SieuViet and all of you PS expert out there, please share your expertise and help us learn a bit more.

Thanks

[convitcon]

thanks BOO :)

Boo ơi, mong sẽ đọc được nhiều tips và images samples hơn trong tương lai from you

convitcon

[N0Brain]

Pretty good instructions. However, some suggestions:
1. when do level, change mode to lab color and adjust the level using the "Lightness" channel only. The main reason is that you are under exposed the light not the color. Change the level in the "Lightness" channel will effect only the lumination with out effecting the color. When done, change the mode back to RGB. Notice the siding in front of the house start lost their border when you are doing level in colors.

2. If you play want to practice the color, use the curve function which will let you change the individual color wihout effecting others. For example, I am assuming the fence is white. Based on that, the picture has little too much red or need a little bit blue. Using the curve will allow you to add more blue or remove some red. Let look it this way, curve function is a more detail version of hue/saturation.

3. Although there is a yellow cast, but it make the scene look much warmer. kudo. The picture is as good as you like it, not anyone else!!

4. A small note. If you are edit image for display only, work in RGB. If you are edit image for printing, work in CMYK since most printers are printing in CMYK ink.

[boo]

Rule of third for better composition. Lot of times, You don't place the interest subject right dead center of the picture but rather on the lines divided the picture into 3 parts.

http://www.photozone.de/4Technique/compose/third.htm

here's some other tips included what should be in the scenery pictures ( forground, midground, background), and rule of third.

http://www.camerahobby.com/Ebook-RuleThirds_Chapter15.htm

More examples rule of third

http://www.aea1.k12.ia.us/lois/ruleofthirds.html

There's other thing call LEADING LINE ( I love using these lines) usually run from the corner of the picture leading to the main interest subject.

http://www.aea1.k12.ia.us/lois/leadinglines.html

Other exercise

http://www.paulsphoto.com/classpdf/Basic2.pdf

There're many more tip that you can always find at google.com. Check out better tips for photography.

[scorpion]

Thanks Boo, thêm nhiều kiến thức, no wonder Boo chụp hình đẹp dzị :D :D

[boo]

hehehe dda^u ma` co' dda^u bu` cap. hihihi. boo cung? ddoc. lom' trong nay` ro^i` ddi practice tho^i a` hihihi Ba(c' cali co' nhie^u` cho^? ddep. qua', Bu` cap. practice rui` cho boo coi zo*i'. Ne^u' bu` cap. co' ca^n` the^m info gi` noi' boo, boo bie^t', hoat. tim` dduo*c. gu*i? cho bro lie^n`. :cheer:

[allah18]

Thanks boo, these are some good resources :)

[diz_b_Kayna]

thank you boo for sharing the tips :loveya:

[kdtty3k]

wow...thax boobs..ops Boo..not boobs...

[Mystique]

Great tips. Thanks!!!



:bigdance2

[scorpion]

http://asp.photo.free.fr/Composition/photoProgramCompClass01.shtml

[tinalam_49]

thanks scorpion. So interesting to learn with

[scorpion]

:)

[scorpion]

check them out, good info for lighting technique

http://www.theflashcentre.com/

http://www.ephotozine.com/equipment/buyersguide/fullbuyersguide.cfm?buyersguideid=26

http://www.lottsphoto.com/Exposure&LightingTechnique.htm

and CCD/CMOS cleaning for D70, D100, 10D, 300D

http://www.pbase.com/image/15471306

[leminh]

great link. ! thanks bocap

leminh

[sadness]

Hello all,

Could anyone show me how to change a picture background to a different background using Photoshop 7. Thank you for your response.

[QC-HH]

try these linkz
http://www.spoono.com/photoshop/tutorials/
http://www.phong.com/tutorials/
http://www.eyewire.com/tips/photoshop/

[QC-HH]

http://www.pegaweb.com/tutorials/separation/separate-image-from-background.htm

[sadness]

Thanks alot for such useful links.

[loto]

Dành cho các bạn muốn làm khung hình chỉ vài cái nhấn nút con chuột.
Các bạn vào đây lấy về:
hxxp://rapidshare.de/files/1364878/khunghinh.rar.html
(Updated link: April 21, 2005)
Trong đó có luôn keygen để làm chìa khoá cài đặt. Mật mã để bung ra là vietcyber. Và các bạn có thể xem thêm chi tiết bên dưới.

idFramer™ is a tool that will give your photos just that little extra: a pretty frame. Use one of the 40 predefined frames or design your own. Use features to design each layer using textures, masks, transparancy and drop shadows. Create professional looking frames with just a few mouse clicks. No file size limitations, no quality loss, no hassles. idFramer even enables you to remove red eyes or rotate your images over any possible angle. One of the strongest features of idFramer is its ability to add image titles or captions. Those captions can be positioned anywhere within the image and can also be watermarked. Once you have framed your images, you can choose to save it, email it or print it, straight from idFramer. idFramer supports over 25 image formats, including JPG, BMP, PNG, GIF, PSD, PSP and TIF.
Homepage: www.idimager.nl/English/index.htm

:)

[DAN]

Thanks

[danscali]

thx bro!

[turau]

Cám Ơn nhiều

[DziVang]

khong biet post o dau nen post o day .... neu op thay sai cho thi move gium nhe.

Free book "Distortion Lens" by Jacob Waletzky:
http://www.jacobwaletzky.com/home/request_book.php

[convitcon]

ông sign up chưa?
khi nào nó ship về cho ông thì nhớ đọc cho kỹ nhen ...khi nào cần gì, tui hỏi ông :D

[DziVang]

dzị quyet dinh vay nghen .... khi nao ong can gi, hú tui mot tieng tui se goi quyen sách do cho ong .... học hỏi hén :D

[scorpion]

I just found this article, it's pretty interesting. Don't let the limitation of your equipment limit your creativity and don't let your camera collecting dust :D :D
Cái đẹp ở nơi mắt người thưởng ngoạn, đừng méc cỡ, share your pix with us


1. Compose Creatively and Move in Close
Whether you are photographing the symbolic subjects of the holidays or your friends and family, getting creative with your composition certainly cannot hurt. This means paying special attention to how you organize the various elements in each photo.
There are two main concepts to keep in mind when composing the scene artistically:
a) Off-center your main subject. Instead of placing your main subject in the center of the scene - with a lot of dead space around it - move your camera until this subject is off to the side. This works especially well if you can balance your main subject with something in the background, on the other side of the picture. For example, if you are photographing a beautiful candle, try placing it on the right with the Christmas tree (or an equivalent supporting element) blurred softly in the background on the left. This will result in a photo that both records the candle in all its beauty and does so in an artistic, creative way.
b) Move in close. Especially when you center your subject but even when you off-center it, moving in close is the one thing that will make the biggest difference in the success of your picture-taking. The simple fact is the audiences are always more impressed when the subject is huge and impossible to miss. Therefore, you want your subject to fill the frame. Say you are photographing the candle mentioned above, but don't have a Christmas tree (or its equivalent supporting element) in the background. In this case, you might want to instead move in as close as you can. Causing the entire frame to be filled with your subject will inevitably result in a photo that has true impact on your viewer.

2. For Better Family and Group Portraits
The most important thing to keep in mind when photographing groups and families is this: you absolutely must take a lot of photos.
There is often a great deal of pressure when photographing groups. People generally complain about having their picture taken and want the experience to be over quickly. They have been trained by bad portrait photographers in the past to hate both the process and the results.
So it is your job to overcome these hurdles. You need to work quickly in order to get the job done within their limits of patience. And you need to keep the experience as fun and friendly as possible, so they remember it in a positive light.
Above both of these tasks, though, you need to get the absolute best photos you can. And more than anything else this means taking a large number of photos. Since there is always someone blinking or looking off to the side or facing another member of the group, having a large number of photos will give you the best chances of catching everyone looking their best.

3. Shoot First, Ask Questions Later
Especially if your subject is a child opening a gift - or playing with a gift for the first time - you know that, within a split second, the scene can change. There is often just a few brief moments when that "magic spark" appears.
That's why it is so important to be fully prepared to capture that moment when it happens. Of course this means having your camera on hand and the batteries fully charged... After all, you can't capture the moment if you don't have your camera on you and ready to go.
However, even more than having your camera on hand, this equates to being assertive with your picture-taking. Be ready to press that shutter button at a moment's notice, anticipating when the magic spark will surface. If you have a digital camera that suffers from a bit of a delay when taking the picture, then you will have to become even more intuitive and skilled at anticipating the moment.
Either way, shoot quickly and shoot often. Don't be shy - getting a great photo of the right moment is rewarding and well worth the extra effort.


4. Don't Use Flash Indoors
The flip side to Tip #5 is to turn off your flash indoors, whenever you can possibly get away with it.
The flash can be a real lifesaver, no doubt about it. This burst of artificial light can mean the difference between a decent photo and a totally blurry, unusable image.
However, the light from flash units - especially from the tiny on-camera flash units found on most every camera - tend to produce harsh, flat, and cold light. This is rarely a complimentary way to illuminate your subject.
If you are shooting indoors during the day, make your portraits with your subjects standing near a window or door instead of relying on the flash. Get between your subject and the window - in other words, don't include the window in your composition, as this will throw off your exposure meter.
If you are shooting indoors at night, try to flood the room where you are photographing with as much light as you can - turn on whatever lamps you have at hand. This will help reduce those harsh, flashed-out subjects, as well as other problems like red-eye.


5. Use Flash Outdoors
Most people think that using flash is synonymous with photographing indoors at night - at a Christmas party for example.
However, flash need not be relegated to indoor, night photography. Flash can be a big help when it comes to shooting outdoors during the day. Even in bright sunlight, forcing your flash to fire can often mean the difference between a so-so snapshot and an eye-grabbing masterpiece.
The reason is that this kind of bright day flash will fill in the shadows and even out harsh contrasts.
Try it out... next time you are photographing friends or children outdoors, turn your flash on and see if it works for you.


6. Look for Reflections
Reflections in Rain Puddles
© Jim Miotke
One the quickest and easiest ways to add an artistic touch to your holiday photos is to focus on capturing reflections rather than the object itself.
Simply keep an eye out for interesting splashes of color, reflected from Christmas lights and other holiday decorations.

Asphalt Abstract
© Heather McFarland
Holiday Cheer
© Heather McFarland
This is one time when rainy days are your friends - puddles in the street can be a perfect source of abstract images - photos that suggest the essence of the holidays without being direct and explicit.
You can also look for interesting shadows and other graphic elements. Or you can include out of focus Christmas lights, to give your photo an evocative, unique background.
See Heather McFarland's previous contest winner - Holiday Cheer - for an excellent example of this technique.


7. Blur, Swirl, and Zoom Those Christmas Lights, Trees
These were made from city lights but you can you any lights for your subject.
© Jim Miotke
Tired of the same old Christmas tree photos? If you want to try something new, set your camera to a slower shutter speed - anywhere from 1/2 second to 2 or 4 full seconds. Then purposefully move the camera while taking the picture. The idea here is to intentionally blur the colorful Christmas lights... and in order to blur a stationary subject, you need a slow shutter speed and controlled camera movement.
If you use an SLR camera with a zoom lens, you will have a little more freedom and speed with your zoom. Thus, you will not need as slow of a shutter speed as those using compact zoom digicams. All the same, you can create this effect with either kind of camera.
For the zooming effect to look clean, you will want to mount your camera securely on a tripod to keep it from moving while you zoom in or out during the exposure.
If you want to get even more creative, you can simple move the camera around while the shutter is open. For this technique, you can leave your tripod at home. That's right... I said it... this is one of the few times I advise you to not use a tripod.

8. Give the Gift of a Photograph
Whether you are a last minute shopper or not, we have the perfect gift idea for you: a family photo.
Parents and grandparents in particular love photos of the family and children as a holiday present.
This is such a cherished present, we will be offering a few of the most helpful pointers for getting great portraits in the upcoming tips. In the meantime, pick out a nice frame, get some good inkjet paper if you shoot digital, and get ready to give a gift that, if done properly, can bring tears of joy to their eyes.


9. Plan Ahead: Charge Batteries and Clear Cards or Buy Film
The last thing you want to have happen is to get all set up for the family portrait or holiday photo to realize you forgot to charge the battery!
In addition to making sure your batteries are charged (or you have replacements on hand), you will also want to make sure you have a place for your potential images to be recorded.
If you shoot digital, offload and archive your images so you can free up space on your flash memory card. If you use a conventional, film-based camera, be sure you have an extra roll or two of film on hand.
Here's a bonus tip for you generous gift-givers out there: before wrapping up digital camera and film camera gifts, charge up the batteries and insert the memory card or film. This will make it all the more fun for the recipient to enjoy your nice gift - right out of the box!
Either way, being prepared will make those once-in-a-lifetime moments that much easier to capture.


10. Don't Eat Yellow Snow; Don't Photograph Blue Snow
As metered
Shot with +1
Shot with +2
© Jim Miotke
If you go out photographing snowy outdoor scenes, most camera meters will be fooled into underexposing your picture. Instead of nice, bright white snow, a bluish cast will give your snow scene an extra cold feel (and an unnatural look).
To remedy this, use your camera's exposure compensation feature or a manual exposure mode to force an addition 1 to 2 stops of light to reach your film or CCD. If you have a point and shoot camera or a compact digicam, your camera may not feature manual exposure but it will likely have the exposure compensation option. Look for a little +1 or +2 symbol.
If you have a film or digital SLR camera, you will likely have these +1 and +2 exposure compensation options as well as a manual exposure mode.

credit and sources: www.betterphoto.com (http://www.betterphoto.com/)


Have fun :)

[nkd]

http://s5.yousendit.com/d.aspx?id=224U1OVJQF5S0306EZ1FX3GSQR

[convitcon]

cảm ơn nhen :)

[Pku]

Thanks, nkd.

[vuilang]

thankxs for sharing alot..... :)

[scorpion]

thanks for sharing Nkd

[tam_phan]

Thank you

[IntellAlien]

Cho các bác thợ nhíp ảnh gia xem cái này nè để các bác khi nào chụp portrait cho người ta mà ai không cười thì gắn nó lên sẽ giúp được phần nào :robber:

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00CSnG

[radeon]

Very funny. Great research!

[Vi_sao]

Shoot Like a Pro (ebook) (http://chaulephotography.com/Photobooks/Shoot%20Like%20A%20Pro!%20-%20Digital%20Photography%20Techniques.pdf)

[JH]

thanks for sharing bro

[KaaBOOM]

Cám ơn Vì Sao nhiều lắm nha .

[radeon]

Thank you.

[Vi_sao]

VS còn nhiều, để từ từ post lên cho các bạn enjoy & save money :)

[scorpion]

Thanks so much for your effort bro VS :)

[radeon]

This could save you money:

http://www.lenshoods.co.uk/

[vhsixtytwo]

Copied this from Nikon.net, but it can apply for any camera brand.

The Fireworks Show by Lindsay Silverman

With the Fourth of July right around the corner, we asked Lindsay, Nikon's Senior Technical Manager and an avid shooter of fireworks displays, to pen a few words about his techniques for capturing the light show in the sky.

Everyone can do it—all you need are fireworks, a camera and a little bit of planning. Here's a quick guide.

The Place. You need to know where there's going to be a fireworks show and when it'll start. Then get to the spot early to claim the high ground—a place in which you'll be comfortable and one that will give you an unobstructed, camera-eye's view of the colorful proceedings. As you can tell from my photos, I like to shoot the fireworks over New York City, and for that I show up really early—I mean hours before the first fuse is lit or switch thrown.

When you get to the location, look for foreground objects. Fireworks against a black sky are colorful, but not that exciting in a photograph. Reference points—buildings, hillsides, trees, monuments—help a lot. (If you're thinking about layering your fireworks' images into other pictures or combining a few into one image, then the blank sky background is the way to go, as you'll want nothing else but lights and sparkles.)

The Gear. Any Nikon DSLR will do it. I suggest you use an electronic cable release, wired or wireless, because the less you touch the camera, the better. A wide-angle lens is ideal, but if you're farther away from the sky show than you'd like to be, a telephoto will be helpful. An 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor will do nicely; the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor is also a good choice. If you're using a VR (vibration reduction) Nikkor, check the instruction book; when some VRs are used on a tripod-mounted camera, it's recommended you turn off the VR function.

Sticks. Yep, I did say tripod. It's essential for fireworks. And get a good one: strong, sturdy, solid. Set it up so your camera's brought up to eye level by the height of the tripod's legs, not the height of the center column. For maximum camera stability, keep the center column as low as you can.

The Cool Way. While an SLR is preferable for fireworks, a COOLPIX won't be out of place or at a loss. In fact, many COOLPIX models feature a fireworks scene mode. A tripod is essential here, too, and it's a good idea to release the shutter via the self-timer to keep the camera as steady as possible. A neat COOLPIX extra: you can shoot a movie of the fireworks as well as stills.

My Way. First I use a Nikon DSLR feature called long exposure noise reduction. It's helpful because as you do long exposures, the camera's sensor tends to build up heat that translates as noise in an image. Long exposure NR goes a long way toward canceling the noise. Then I shoot at the highest quality I can: the NEF file. When the fireworks start I tend to mark my exposures not so much by time but by the number of air bursts. I'll expose for three, four or five bursts; sometimes I'll keep the shutter open for up to ten. Fireworks shows last a pretty long time, so you'll be able to check the back of the camera to see how your best guesses for exposure are turning out. I have a starting point you might want to try: ISO 200 at f/11. I review the first shot—looking for detail, color and sharpness—and adjust from there. If I'm underexposed a bit, I'll open the aperture; if overexposed, I'll close down.

Card Trick. Here's my technique for maximum camera steadiness. I set my Nikon DSLR on its bulb setting and hold a black piece of cardboard, about four inches square, in front of the lens. I open the shutter using the cable release, wait about five seconds and then move the card away from the front of the lens. The card never touches the lens, it just blocks it. What I'm doing is giving the camera time to settle down after the shutter is released. When the card is taken away, the exposure starts, and when I decide the exposure is done, I move the card back in front of the lens, hold it there and close the shutter with the release.

Okay, now find a piece of cardboard and some black paint. The Fourth is coming on fast.

[leminh]

Hello guy, this software is very good, can resize hold folder with 1 click
save you time, and this is not software forum but I go head post it, please deleted if you like :)

Visualizer Photo Resize 5.2
Win 98/ME/2K/XP

Visualizer Photo Resize is a complete package for digital photographers and webmasters who wants to resize, improve and share photos fast and easy. With Visualizer Photo Resize you can achieve the results you want without any graphic or web experience, all you have to do is select an image folder and enter the resize ratio for your images and click Resize - it´s that easy. Visualizer Photo Resize gives you one of the best and smoothest resizes found on the Internet.




Visualizer Photo Resize also comes with a complete editor which allows you to view and edit your images in various ways. You can manually resize and enhance your images, by either changing or strecthing the image canvas to any user defined size. You can also crop your images, removing areas which are not important for your needs. You will find many useful options once you click the Preview button.

Features:

JPG/JPEG Batch Resizing and Compression (automatic Anti-Aliasing for best quality).
EXIF Reader for Digital Camera knowledge and photo details.
Batch Resize frames from movies (convert AVI Single or Multiple frames to JPG).
Batch Grayscale and/or Autofix colors.
Resize single images from defined 4:3 (Square) or user defined values.
Watermark Protection (text or JPG, PNG, BMP images and many other features).
Web album & thumbnail templates (build your own photo albums - 4 skins included).
Photo Viewing and Editing - Blur, Invert, Crop, Rotate, Zoom, Grayscale.
Photo improvement - Autofix Colors, Brightness/Contrast, RGB Color Correction.
16 Photo filters (incl. Fade last action).
Photo Viewing supports JPG, JPEG and PNG.
Photo Editing - Convert PNG to JPG or JPG to PNG.
Capture images from any Digital devices (Camera, Webcam or Scanner).
Movie viewing and management.
Thumbnail navigation (with menu option).
Rename, Delete, Copy and Paste images.
Zip manager.
Send as e-mail.
Zip & Send.
Visualizer Today - Support, News, Tutorials and Discussions.
Free!
A powerful freeware JPG/JPEG Photo Manager for resizing single or multiple digital images and a perfect solution for webmasters and digital photographers. English help manual included. Have a look at What Is New.


http://www.freeimagebrowser.com/trk.php?fileID=45

[BottleN]

Thanks..chua bi delete..lucky..:)

[govap]

Cam on Leminh.

[scorpion]

Hi All,
From now on, all of the info, tutorial, tip, trick about photography, I will merge into this thread so everyone can search.
Thanks so much for your contribution.